Almost exactly 2 years ago, in April
2010, I had driven from Jamshedpur to Bhutan but had to return from the border
town of Phuentsholing as no tourists were allowed beyond this town in the
plains in view of a SAARC meeting (which was scheduled more than a month later!)
at Thimphu.
On the 2nd anniversary of
the frustrating experience of 2010, the same four people (a cousin brother
& his wife who live in Durgapur and my wife & I) decided to have
another go at Bhutan in my Suzuki Swift Vdi. This time I had made sure that
there were no restrictions on tourists entering Bhutan and we had an enjoyable
trip to Thimphu and Paro. A brief account of our trip is given below.
Day 1 (14.04.12)
6 AM to 11 AM : Jaya and I drove from
Jamshedpur to Durgapur (190 km) via Patamda, Katin, Banduan, Manbazar,
Hathirampur and Bankura. I tried this route to Bankura for the first time –
though it is about 40 km shorter as compared to the route via Chandil and
Purulia, I found some stretches to be very bad. Bankura to Durgapur is excellent
(though it is not a dual carriageway), with bright white lines in the middle as
well as on both sides of the road.
11:30 AM to 7 PM : After picking up my cousin and his wife at Durgapur we drove to Malda (261 km) and put up at a hotel. The route was via Panagarh, Ilam Bazar, Siuri, Rampurhat and Nalhati to Moregram where
the road joins NH34 (Kolkata-Siliguri highway). From Moregram we drove to Malda
via Farakka.
The road from Durgapur to Malda has
several bad stretches. Though 4-laning of NH-34 is going on, bad stretches far
exceed good ones at present.
Day 2 (15.04.12)
06:30 AM to 5 PM : Drove from Malda to
Jaigaon (411 km) via Dalkhola, Siliguri, Sevoke, Binnaguri and Hashimara. Road
from Malda to Dalkhola is mostly unsatisfactory though 4-laning is going on in
a big way. But after Dalkhola the road to Siliguri is excellent (4-lane dual
carriageway). From Siliguri to Jaigaon too the road is quite good except for a
15 km stretch between Jaldapara and Hashimara which is terrible (badly broken).
We had an excellent lunch at the West
Bengal Tourist Lodge at Mal Bazar (53 km from Siliguri).
Jaigaon is the border town on the
Indian side. One can freely enter Phuentsholing through the ‘Bhutan Gate’. We
spent the night at an Army Officers’ Mess at Jaigaon.
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View of the Indian border town of Jaigaon |
Day 2 (16.04.12)
9 AM to 11 AM (Bhutan time, which is
30 min ahead of IST) : The Immigration Office at Phuentsholing opens at 9 AM on
working days. We were the first people in the queue, having reached at 8:30 AM.
It took the four of us about 45 minutes to get our Permits to visit Thimphu and
Paro. We submitted photocopies of our Voter ID cards and a colour photo each.
There is no charge for the Permits for Indians.
After getting our individual Permits,
we needed to get another Permit for the car. This is done at the RSTA (Road
Safety and Transport Authority) office at P’sholing, about ½ km from the
Immigration office. The car permit took more than an hour as it involves running
around to several sub-depts of RSTA. There were queues everywhere. I had to
submit photocopies of our individual tourist permits, car papers (registration,
insurance, PUC, driving license) and make a written application on plain paper.
A payment of Rs 190 (depends on size of vehicle) had to be made in the accounts
dept – that alone took 30 mins.
11:15 AM to 5 PM : Drove from
P’sholing to Thimphu (168 km). Almost the entire distance is hill roads with
innumerable blind curves, hairpin bends and steep climbs / descents. This was
my longest continuous driving on hill roads. The road surface is very good
throughout – incidentally, all roads in Bhutan are built and maintained by our
BRO (Border Roads Organisation). Around 60% of this road is quite wide and very
comfortable to drive on. But 40% is narrow (like most hill roads in Darjeeling
hills, Sikkim, etc.) and one has to drive very cautiously.
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Hill roads in Bhutan |
There were two Check Posts in this
stretch where I had to park the car, show the individual permits and the car
permit at two different counters and have them stamped. I noticed that these
check-posts were computerized and networked, i.e., our whereabouts and that of
the car were being constantly monitored.
At Thimphu we checked out several
hotels and finally settled for Hotel Wangchuk. The official tariff was Rs 3,300
but after some hard bargaining we got it down to Rs 2,000 per night (inclusive
of taxes). The hotel offered free parking and wi-fi and had a reasonably decent
bar-cum-restaurant.
Day 3 (17.04.12)
Spent the entire day sightseeing at
Thimphu. Having my own car was a boon. Visited the Memorial Chorten, Buddha
Point, zoo (the only animal worth seeing in this mini-zoo is Bhutan’s national
animal – Takin; apart from Takin there are only a few deer there) and Thimpu
Dzong (Tashichhodzong). We landed up at the massive Thimphu Dzong around 1300
hrs and were told that tourists are allowed to see the Dzong only between
1700-1800 hrs because the Dzong houses many govt. offices and even the King
attends office there everyday. So we went back to our hotel and returned in the
evening.
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Standing Buddha at Thimphu |
IMHO, one full day is good enough to
see Thimphu. It is a small city and it does not take much time to go around.
Incidentally, Thimphu is the only capital city in the world which does not have
a single traffic light!
Things I found most striking in
Thimphu : (1) Most of the buildings and private residences are built in
traditional Bhutanese architectural style. (2) Most people, including school
children, wear Bhutanese National Dress when they are out of their homes. For
govt. servants wearing national dress to work is mandatory.
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Govt. officials coming out of Thimphu dzong |
Bhutanese and Indian food are
available everywhere and prices are reasonable.
It must be remembered that the Immigration
Office at P’sholing issues permit for visiting Thimphu and Paro only. If one
wants to visit other places in Bhutan, one has to get the permit suitably
endorsed at the Immigration Office in Thimphu.
Day 4 (18.04.12)
Checked out of the hotel after
breakfast and drove to Paro (50 km). To go to Paro from Thimphu, one has to
return to Chuzom which is the junction point for roads to Haa, Paro, Thimphu
and P’sholing. The road to Paro was quite nice with very sparse traffic.
When we were about 6 km from Paro
town, we came across a BRO (Indian Border Roads Organisation) unit at Bondey. I
contacted an Indian Army officer in that unit and he was kind enough to provide
us with accommodation in their Officers’ Mess. The guest rooms there were quite
nice and we had a comfortable stay there for two nights. We also got typical
Indian food there.
After keeping our things in the Mess
and freshening up, we drove to Paro town. It is a very small town, with a
population of only 4,000 or so! The main industry of Paro seems to be tourism
and the small city-centre comprises a large number of shops selling Bhutanese
handicrafts and Chinese goods to tourists. We spent the day checking out the
shops in Paro and visiting the Paro Dzong.
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Jaya & DM near Paro Dzong |
Both in Thimphu and Paro the days were
warm / pleasant (20-23 deg C) and the nights were cool (9-11 deg C).
Day 5 (19.04.12)
While doing the homework (on the
internet, primarily) before visiting Bhutan, I had learnt that many Western
tourists visit Bhutan to enjoy trekking thro’ the pristine forests and hills of
this Himalayan kingdom. And the one trek which is highly recommended as a
‘must-do’ is the trek to Taktsang Monastery (Tiger’s Nest). Taktsang Monastery
is located 10 kilometres to the north of Paro and hangs on a precipitous cliff
at 3,120 metres (10,240 ft), about 900 metres (3,000 ft) above the Paro valley.
Check out http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paro_Taktsang
I had read several accounts of the
trek to Tiger’s Nest blogged by tourists and knew that it was a steep, long and
arduous trek. Being fond of trekking personally, I was very keen to give it a
shot. I also motivated my wife Jaya and the two relatives accompanying us (who
are slightly older than us) to give it a try and at least make it to the cafeteria
point (almost mid-way) which has a good view of the Tiger’s Nest.
After breakfast in the morning we set
out for Drukgyal and Taktsang. First we drove up a hill (16 km beyond Paro
town) to visit the ruins of Drukgyal Dzong. I had been told that from Drukgyal
one could get a nice view of the snowcapped Mount Jomolhari. But we could not
see any peaks due to clouds.
Thereafter, we returned about 7 km
towards Paro (one doesn’t have to go to Drukgyal for the Taktsang trek) and
then took the narrow branch road (about 5 km) to the ‘base camp’ or starting
point of the Taktsang trek. This starting point has ample parking space for
cars and lots of locals selling handicrafts, etc. We parked our car there and
armed with rucksacks containing water and snacks we started our climb to the
Tiger’s Nest on foot.
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Parking space at the base camp |
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The dusty trek route (avoidable during rains) |
The climb is indeed steep and my
cousin and his wife gave up after 30 minutes and returned to the base camp.
Jaya too was on the verge of giving up several times but mustered all her
resources to climb to the cafeteria point with me which took an hour. She
called it quits there and I carried on and reached the point where the stone
steps start in another 45 minutes.
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A prayer wheel near cafeteria point |
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View of Tiger's Nest from cafeteria point |
Let me explain the stone steps. The
last part of the trek to Tiger’s Nest involves crossing over from one hill to
another – so one needs to descend to a waterfall and then ascend to the Tiger’s
Nest on another hill. This last stretch comprising a steep descent followed an
equally steep ascent is made up of stone steps with a metal railing. This
stretch took me another 30 minutes. So after 2 hours and 15 minutes of trekking
I reached the Tiger’s Nest.
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Stone steps leading to Tiger's Nest |
It was tough but the feeling after
finally making it was exhilarating. At the Tiger’s Nest entrance one has to
deposit one’s bags, camera and mobile phone and enter one’s name in a register
after showing a proof of identity. Then one is frisked by Police before
entering the monastery. I had a wonderful tour of Taktsang and I even saw the
deep cave inside which Guru Rinpoche is said to have meditated. I had read
about this cave and when I couldn’t find it I asked a Policeman and he was kind
enough to escort me to the entrance to the cave, lift the hatch covering the
entrance and show me the deep cave with his flashlight.
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Frisking by Police at Tiger's Nest |
After a very satisfying tour of
Taktsang I started my trek back to base camp. Though one does not have to
expend much energy during descent, the chances of slipping or stumbling are
greater while trekking downhill and so one has to be very cautious. It took me about
an hour to descend to the cafeteria point where Jaya was anxiously waiting for
me (2 ½ hours had elapsed after we parted here). Thereafter we climbed down to
the base camp together.
The entire trek took me 4 hours and 10
minutes (2 hrs 15 mins to climb up, 20 mins at Tiger’s Nest and 1 hr 35 mins to
descend). This definitely was the high point of my visit to Bhutan, personally.
I can compare this trek to the one I did to Hemkund Sahib from Ghangria a few
years ago.
I was feeling quite elated that I
could do this trek in good time (many people take 3 hours to climb up) at age
60+ till I met a 75 year old Australian gentleman who did this trek with equal
ease. I introduced myself to him, congratulated him and told him that if I am
lucky enough to live till 75 I would love to be like him – still climbing
Tiger's Nests!
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Close-up of Taktsang (Tiger's Nest) |
I must state for information that
ponies / mules are available for taking tourists to Taktsang from the base
camp. But the ride is only up to the point where the stone steps start. Mules
cannot move on the steep stone steps and so even if one hires a mule one needs
to be fit enough to negotiate the stone steps on foot. Furthermore, mules are not
allowed to carry tourists during descent as the chances of stumbling are high
and there have been some accidents in the past. In short, one needs a certain
degree of physical fitness to visit Tiger’s Nest even if one were to hire a
mule.
Day 6 (20.04.12)
Left Paro at 8 AM and descended to
P’sholing by 12:30 PM. Again, our permits were checked, stamped and data entered in the
Police network at two checkpoints. At the last checkpoint (before P’sholing) we
were required to surrender our permits.
I topped up my car’s fuel tank before
leaving Bhutan as diesel costs about 10% less there. By 5 PM we were in
Siliguri where we halted for the night. Drove 307 km today.
Day 7 (21.04.12)
Drove 526 km from Siliguri to Durgapur
(6:30 AM to 9 PM) and spent the night at my cousin’s house. The average speed
of 35 kmph, excellent 4-lane stretch from Siliguri to Dalkhola (125 km)
notwithstanding, clearly indicates the general condition of the road between
Dalkhola and Durgapur.
Day 8 (22.04.12)
Left Durgapur at 8 AM and reached
Jamshedpur (229 km via Purulia and Chandil) at 1:30 PM.
My trusty Swift Vdi performed very well
throughout. Bhutan involved lots and lots of hill driving and with a fully
loaded car there were times when I wished there was more power on tap. Diesel engine
clatter, normally not very audible in the Multijet engine, used to become quite
loud and prominent during steep climbs. With 4 people on a holiday, the absence
of adequate boot space was also felt.
Maybe it is high time I bought a SUV, with the kind of driving I do.
Total distance covered during the trip
was 2254 km.